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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.